It's hard not being tempted to compare a given place with previous incarnations; especially when those former incarnations were particularly beloved. The present Bicycle menu is focused on upmarket comfort foods, and has lost much of the daring verve of earlier menus. Dishes were mostly capable and satisfying; portions have gotten more generous. A few missteps in execution (the pulled pork); some truly masterful pieces (the crab and corn soup); some very pleasing classics (the Vegetarian platter, and the delicate short ribs). Smartly curated wine selection. Service was pleasant and attentive. Intimate, cozy space has taken on an air of expensive IKEA chintziness.

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